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 Post subject: Wall & Holds
PostPosted: Fri Feb 05, 2010 5:56 pm 
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So I'm gonna be moving to the mid-west soon, which means I'm gonna *need* a home wall to keep up the addiction. I have a few questions for the group:

1) Any good home wall designs beyond the standard 45deg wall? Yes, I've seen the Metolious thing. I've got a two-car garage, but I'm thinking about building something out in the backyard.

2) Holds. Anybody have tips on 1) a good mix of holds to start out with? and 2) some sort of "holds of the month" club?

3) Ways to keep it interesting. In my last post about this topic, it was suggested to me that I just put every hold I have on the wall, then make up climbs. Then once a month, strip it, wash everything, and repeat. Anybody like/dislike this approach?

Thanks, all.


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 Post subject: Re: Wall & Holds
PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 12:04 pm 
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total poser
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Location: Huntington Beach, CA
fraction wrote:
So I'm gonna be moving to the mid-west soon


Why?! Why would you ever do this?!

Does this mean we're going to call this site west and mid-west bouldering?

fraction wrote:
1) Any good home wall designs beyond the standard 45deg wall? Yes, I've seen the Metolious thing. I've got a two-car garage, but I'm thinking about building something out in the backyard.


Backyard in the mid-west? You better look into covers or some nice weather proof stuff sealer...plus this would mean you could only climb two or three seasons a year, no?

fraction wrote:
2) Holds. Anybody have tips on 1) a good mix of holds to start out with? and 2) some sort of "holds of the month" club?


Anything cheap! Seriously, just get whatever holds you can find, old gym holds, wood holds, make holds from bondo...just get stuff on the wall.

Voodoo and Climb-it used to have hold of the month clubs which looked sick but expensive but I can't find either on their website.

fraction wrote:
3) Ways to keep it interesting. In my last post about this topic, it was suggested to me that I just put every hold I have on the wall, then make up climbs. Then once a month, strip it, wash everything, and repeat. Anybody like/dislike this approach?


I personally think you should set holds filling the wall with actual intended problems and then with that many holds on you can make up more stuff. This is probably more effort but seems like you would have problems that flow/serve an intended purpose more, no?

When I had a home wall I preferred setting a limited number of problems, always leaving a few holds off the wall for the next session and just stripping a few periodically. But then again I like setting and did this most sessions for motivation.


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 Post subject: Re: Wall & Holds
PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 5:12 pm 
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Stretch wrote:
Why?! Why would you ever do this?!

Well, I decided to quit my job in San Francisco to make some radical changes at home. More info here:
http://www.volasail.com/2010/01/out-on-a-limb/

...then, a few days after I quit, I landed an awesome job in Oklahoma City. More info here:
http://www.volasail.com/2010/01/were-ok-c/

Stretch wrote:
Does this mean we're going to call this site west and mid-west bouldering?

No. That would be depressing.

Stretch wrote:
Backyard in the mid-west? You better look into covers or some nice weather proof stuff sealer...plus this would mean you could only climb two or three seasons a year, no?


Good call. I guess it'd be a total pain in the ass to keep pads dry (and bolted down during windy seasons). Garage may be a better answer. I was trying to avoid connecting anything to a permanent structure since we're renting, but I guess it just means a bit more cleanup when we leave. No sweat.

Stretch wrote:
Anything cheap! Seriously, just get whatever holds you can find, old gym holds, wood holds, make holds from bondo...just get stuff on the wall.


So Ill has a hold of the month club that my buddy used to be a part of -- some good stuff. I guess to start out, I could hit up Ebay or something? Just get started with more quantity, eh?

Stretch wrote:
I personally think you should set holds filling the wall with actual intended problems and then with that many holds on you can make up more stuff. This is probably more effort but seems like you would have problems that flow/serve an intended purpose more, no?


Cool. Yeah, I'm just trying to think of ways to keep the problems interesting. My skills at setting are so-so. I was thinking about trying to replicate some of the stuff that Moon puts out:
http://usa.moonclimbing.com/moon-board-problems-c-334_338.html

... just in case I get "writer's block" for climbing and can't set anything interesting.


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 Post subject: Re: Wall & Holds
PostPosted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 11:58 pm 
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total poser
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Joined: Fri Oct 26, 2007 12:01 am
Posts: 413
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
fraction wrote:
Stretch wrote:
Why?! Why would you ever do this?!

Well, I decided to quit my job in San Francisco to make some radical changes at home. More info here:
http://www.volasail.com/2010/01/out-on-a-limb/

...then, a few days after I quit, I landed an awesome job in Oklahoma City. More info here:
http://www.volasail.com/2010/01/were-ok-c/



Wow that's crazy! But very sane at the same time. Happiness is more important than money! Best of luck to you and your family.


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 Post subject: Re: Wall & Holds
PostPosted: Mon Mar 01, 2010 10:02 pm 
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kinda cranks
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Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2008 2:14 am
Posts: 248
well SHIT!! happy times brother! As long as you're happy, good luck out there and God bless~


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