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 Post subject: Organic crashpads...
PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 1:51 pm 
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greenhorn
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Joined: Tue Sep 15, 2009 12:56 pm
Posts: 2
Location: Santa Clara, CA
I'm looking to buy my first crashpad and am a bit overwhelmed by the choice out there. I'm leaning towards an Organic crashpad since I've heard pretty good things about them. I just wanted to ask a bouldering specific community - Are they really worth the $$ and wait or should I just go with a slightly cheaper crashpad from my local rock gym or REI?

I don't boulder a whole bunch, but I figure I may as well get quality if we're talking about shelling out between $150 and $200.


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 Post subject: Re: Organic crashpads...
PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 2:43 pm 
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kinda cranks
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Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2008 2:14 am
Posts: 248
Not exactly an Organic fan so I wanted to provide a bit of criticism. The key thing for me is that I've landed on a couple of Organics and they are pretty stiff. I actually landed square in the middle of one and sprained my ankle (not an ackward landing in any way, but it was so stiff I might as well have landed on the ground...). Maybe it needed to be broken in more or whatnot, but my experience is that they are a bit too stiff for me.

Just make sure that you get what you are looking for...do you want just a crasher or do you want one with functional aspects to it? For example, do you want extra handles? Pockets? Do you intend on stuffing gear inside it? A flap at the bottom so if you stuff gear in between it won't fall out? A flap on the side for the same reason? Do you care about metal buckles or how the thing locks down? Oh...do you intend to highball it?

If you don't care about most of that, go with the cheapest thing out there...I believe it's the Mad Rock Double Fold? It serves its intended purpose rather well for the price. If you want functionality, save some cash and go higher end. My fav so far is the Black Diamond Drop Zone and Mondo. If you can wait til Xmas, you may find some SWEET internet deals...or if you can get it wholesale through your gym then go for it. REI will charge full retail; Eff That~ fuckyou


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 Post subject: Re: Organic crashpads...
PostPosted: Tue Sep 15, 2009 4:51 pm 
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Internet Predator
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Joined: Mon Oct 22, 2007 2:09 pm
Posts: 928
Hey Nina --

I used to own the Metolious Cheap Bastard (http://www.spadout.com/p/metolius-cheap-bastard/)
Pros
* light
* cheap
* decent construction (never ripped for me)
* angled hinge (you'll find the Mad Rock just has a straight hinge, which is fairly dangerous)

Cons
* hinged in the middle -- angled or not, it freaked me out
* because of that hinge, it was awkward to lay against something like a boulder at your back. if it didn't fit perfectly, it'd just close shut
* because of the hinge, if i wanted to stuff crap inside, it'd end up with a fat, awkward bulge

...so to combat those Cons, I bought the Black Diamond Impact (http://www.bouldering.com/products/Blac ... h-Pad.html)

Pros
* no hinge -- which solves all my previous cons
* still relatively cheap

Cons
* the buckles kinda suck, but not a huge deal

I remember a crash pad review in Climbing Mag in 2007 -- they picked Organic as #1. I can't find the article online, but here's the final review for the Organic Pad: http://www.organicclimbing.com/images/editorschoice.pdf


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 Post subject: Re: Organic crashpads...
PostPosted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 11:24 am 
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greenhorn

Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2008 11:00 am
Posts: 13
i have owned, a voodoo, cordless (doesn't exist), dropzone, and organic.

They all work well at first, but the organic is the only pad that lasts. The madrock pads are cheap but if you climb alot they could be worn out in as little as 3-6 months. I probably climb outside about 100-125 days per year and my organic has lasted for over 2 years and that's before Josh's new foam (which he thinks will last longer than the old stuff). Also the center hinge combined with the continuous top sheet makes the pad almost as sturdy as a taco style pad, but doesn't give you problems when you go to lay it out. Also you are able to adjust (at least on my pad) where the straps are on the pad, so you can carry it higher on your back if you're short, or lower if you're tall.

Mondo's are absurd... i don't know what's up with the round edges; it basically means if you have multiple pads as a landing, you are guaranteed to have ankle breaking gaps between pads.

I know this sounds like an organic plug, because, well, it is. All the other pads are just expensive carpet...


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 Post subject: Re: Organic crashpads...
PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 11:47 am 
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$h!t d!ck
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Joined: Thu Oct 04, 2007 10:31 pm
Posts: 185
did u just name drop 'josh'?

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 Post subject: Re: Organic crashpads...
PostPosted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 2:28 pm 
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greenhorn

Joined: Mon Jul 07, 2008 2:07 pm
Posts: 8
Location: Irvine
I can also vouch for organic pads. I've got a big one and medium sized one. They're both awesome. Great design and they last better than most other pads. I hate the velcro on my little one but they've seen switched to buckles. They aren't that stiff after you break them in. Not like the newer style metolius pads. Those are way too stiff.
Alex

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 Post subject: Re: Organic crashpads...
PostPosted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 12:26 am 
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chicken wing
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Joined: Sun Sep 23, 2007 8:29 pm
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Location: joshua orange tree county nation
fat savage wrote:
I've got a big one and medium sized one. They're both awesome.
I hate . . . my little one . . . They aren't that stiff after you break them . . . way too stiff.
Alex



whaaaaat ?!

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 Post subject: Re: Organic crashpads...
PostPosted: Mon Sep 21, 2009 9:16 am 
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greenhorn

Joined: Tue Sep 23, 2008 11:00 am
Posts: 13
oldskool5150 wrote:
did u just name drop 'josh'?


of course! he's waaaaaay more important than the people other folks name drop... like Joe Morgan?!? Who the hell is that!?


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 Post subject: Re: Organic crashpads...
PostPosted: Fri Jan 15, 2010 1:01 pm 
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sensei

Joined: Wed Oct 31, 2007 11:29 am
Posts: 85
I missed this thread but would still like to chime in. I'm sure nsmonkeygirl that you've already bought a crashpad. Anyways, there are basically only a few types of pad out there. The dominant style is an open cell foam pad, top layer approx. 1 inch closed cell foam, with primarily shoulder straps. This type of pad can not carry too much since the load is on the shoulders. Regarding the foam, the heavier it is, the better it is. That's a bit generalized, but is mostly true. I use a flashed pad (I'm also biased in that I'm one of their product testers), a shogun, and the foam has been seriously used for maybe 5 or more years, and I've had them replace the cover once, last month, and the top closed cell layer some time early last year, I think. The open cell foam used by flashed is one of the heavier if not the heaviest out there, but it's also basically bombproof. It's in perfect condition to this day. All closed cell breaks down, and it's supposed to do that. It takes the brunt of the shock on impact and needs to be replaced on occasion. The outer cover was still usable, but flashed replaced mine to test the addition of top supports that pull the upper part close to my back and shoulders.

Of the two types of conventional pads, the heavier ones with better open cell foam need more support for carrying them. The flashed conventional pads are the only ones that I know of with a real or serious hip harness. The lighter you are and the less capable your shoulders are for taking the weight of pad and gear, a hip system makes a huge difference. All their pads with full hip support ride very well. I can easily hike for 2 hours one way, seriously, without any issues and carrying a full day's load of water, camera stuff, food and gear.

the other type of pad is an air pad system, and I only know of flashed air pad that's in production, but I'm sure someone might fill me in on others. It's quite different in characteristics and is heavier than other pads. The primary strength of the air pad is that it absorbs almost all the kinetic energy on impact. What this means is that you don't get that rebound shock from the open cell foam trying to return to it's original form. For most peeps (younger mainly) it's no big deal to deal with, but in the long run, there is the possibility that the conventional pads could cause knee and lower back issues. Of course this is premised on the fact that one is actually falling from a decent height repeatedly. Also, the edges on the air pad don't hold up to a fixed corner or edge, so it's very forgiving if you land on the edge. the downside is it because it doesn't hold up, pushed up against a conventional pad will expose the conventional pad's edge. The higher you fall, the better the air pad is, IMHO. The air pad also doesn't hold a rigid base or form against irregular surfaces. This can be both good and bad. The good is that it'll conform and deform on impact when the surface is angled--meaning it acts as if the surface is flat. A conventional pad will literally "kick" you off and down the slope of the pad. The bad is that the air will not establish a rigid and flat surface over irregularities. Sharp objects will cause the pad to not be as effective and will potentially create a risk of impact if not fixed by other means (mainly to use a conventional pad to flatten the area first). The air pad is expensive. The latest design of the airpad now rides very good. It has the upper straps to pull the top close, and it uses the full suspension.

After using the air pad, I feel it's the best there is. It has limitations, that should improve with better technology and design. What makes it so good has everything to do with the impact feel. I typically take one air pad and one conventional pad. Because it's expensive, I think it's best suited for those wanting to do highballs. because the edges are forgiving, it's perfect as the top layer and strike zone sitting over conventional pads.

A buddy of mine recently had his lower spine fuzed, after twice rupturing a disc. He loves highballs and he's not afraid to go for it. It cost him. He uses the air pad now and swears by it. No one can say what the causes are for his back problem, but I really do think, anecdotally, that had he had an air pad the whole time, he wouldn't have a fuzed spine today. just my opinion. of course, how one falls has tons to do with impact as well as one's genes, I'm sure.

I assume by your name that you're a chick, if so, the temple works very well and isn't a small pad. I've had several women say it's their best crash pad and they love the way it carries. Their small and their shoulders took a beating with the conventional designs sans serious waist strap.

rm


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