Gritty Butt Butter -- v4


FA: Joe Smith (2008)
Added: November 16, 2008
Updated: November 16, 2008
Grade: v4 (3 sends)
Stars:
Views: 450
Submitted By: fraction

Description


Joe on the FA
While standing in front of Picture Perfect, this climb is located on the boulder directly *behind* you. Start with a left hand on a knob on the overhung roof and a right hand high on a sloper around the corner.  Throw a high right heel hook, then slap your way to the corner and up the small rail.


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Comments

Heretic
Feb 7, 2011
Given the left hand knob broke off, there were a couple of options to go by:

1. See the uploaded image; right hand and heel are the same as before, with the "L" being a new start position for the left hand ("X" is where the knob broke off). IMHO, starting from this sloper for the left hand preserves the grade as the knob was a small jug anyway. I also think starting left hand here makes the problem much more consistent given the other gritty slopers on the problem.

2. Where the "X" is, there's a lower knob (sort of) but it's a small crimp and a few inches further down. Starting here as the original start position did is now harder, MHO a JTree V5.

So which one now? I'm going with option #1 for consistency and quality, but the lower hand start is just as legit. Also, despite this problem being really gritty (appropriate name for sure), it's pretty fun, short and compressive. 2-3 stars.
Heretic
Feb 8, 2011
3. Combine #1 & #2; start as #2 but bump left hand to the sloper first at "L", then continue on as you would for the rest of the problem. My guess for this variation would be V4/5 since you're moving off the crimp sooner to finish the problem.