Vaino Dyno -- v5.33


Added: April 2, 2009
Updated: April 17, 2009
Grade: v5.33 (2 sends)
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Views: 586
Submitted By: danielguydude

Description

Dyno from the sidepulls of yabo mantle, top out without using the chopped hold at the left, very frictiony and smeary, better on a cool day

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Comments

Heretic
Apr 3, 2009
Are there any major differences between this and Leaping Lizards?
Sam
Apr 3, 2009
Leaping Lizards goes to the nice flat jug. Vaino's Dyno goes to the sloping shelf.Same start, very different finish. Once you latch the jug on Leaping Lizards it's essentially over. The dyno on Vaino's is just the beginning. I'd suggest trying Yabo Mantle before Vaino's.
Stretch
Apr 4, 2009
Are you talking about the huge slopey dip shelf that you mantle in Yabo Mantle?  If so, how is Vaino's different then Yabo Mantle?  That's not even really a dyno
Sam
Apr 6, 2009
Yabo Mantle uses the undercling, Vaino's Dyno goes from the start holds to the shelf. it's almost the same problem, but not. if you can mantle the shelf from the sidepulls without a dyno, congratulations.
Stretch
Apr 6, 2009
Isn't the mantel still the crux?  Doesn't seem like eliminating an unneccessary undercling should bump it up a grade or two.
Sam
Apr 7, 2009
I agree, it's more like a variation than a separate problem. I tried it once years ago, so I can't speak for the difference in grade. I'll go climb it and report back.   Post Send Edit: For me it was barely different than Yabo Mantle and less enjoyable. height dependent maybe?
danielguydude
Apr 15, 2009
its v6 because sticking that dyno is fucking hard, and burns Anergy...anywho, I have never done yabo mantle, but I really do think this is V6
Heretic
Apr 16, 2009
Still just a variation of the Yabo Mantle where you're skipping holds though.
Tattvamasi
Apr 17, 2009
yes it is, and leaping lizards can be done static. But it doesn't really matter so much, as it is still a problem. Stoney has a lot of problems that are in some way eliminate; the idea of a problem is an eliminate itself most of the time since we place arbitrary lines up features on a rock and say stick to the left or right at certain features.
Heretic
Apr 19, 2009
forum: http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&p=5047#p5047