The Mothership Connection -- v4.04


Added: May 27, 2009
Updated: May 27, 2009
Grade: v4.04 (6 sends)
Stars:
Views: 429
Submitted By: bleopard

Description


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Start at a huge hold on a block at head height. Climb via a horizontal crack to gain and climb the front face.

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Comments

fraction
May 31, 2009
I don't know if crap has broken or what, but when I tried this thing last March ('09), I turned the face and felt like I was done. But nooooo... either something broke, it's not v4, or I was missing some massive hold. I'll accept either of those answers.
Stretch
Jun 2, 2009
I've yet to send this one and have always felt it way harder than V4. I'll go a step further though and say it's not nearly as fun or classic as people say it is.
Tattvamasi
Jun 3, 2009
i spent over an hour on this, and after i did it i was tired, walked over to chizam, and onsighted it.. i agree that its probably not a v4.
ps. i have since learned heel hook beta for the right foot that may make it easier, but i have yet to try it. so may yet be a v4
fraction
Jun 4, 2009
Getting to the lip is definitely v4 -- there's some heel/toe beta that gets you there and I worked it out pretty easily. Getting up the face is a totally different story...
Tattvamasi
Oct 12, 2009
this is noticeably harder than chizam stand start.
magicawaits
Oct 12, 2009
This thing is pretty beta intensive, i think it is around v4, maybe v5
fraction
Oct 12, 2009
I agree with the "v4 if you have the beta comment" -- but only with getting to the lip. The face completely stumped me. Any beta for that?
magicawaits
Oct 12, 2009
I think I awkwardly bumped my left hand up a couple of time until i got to a good hold. but that is all I can remember without being in front of the climb