Jedi Mind Tricks -- v3.67


Added: October 13, 2009
Updated: October 13, 2009
Grade: v3.67 (2 sends)
Stars:
Views: 495
Submitted By: Heretic

Description


Jedi Mind...
The wall just left of the right arete (on the back of the boulder) is a gem that belongs on everyone's ticklist. A very tricky start with bad footholds, leads to sustained crimping on fairly solid, yet hollow flakes. A big move up right provides the mental crux. A left exit looks risky. (guide pg 283)

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Comments

Heretic
Oct 13, 2009
I was told 'stories' that this thing was 30+ feet high and super scary. I got there, scoped it out...barely 20 ft (if that), just ever so slightly greater than 90 degrees (technically slab), and the feet aren't necessarily bad, just not in great positions. Despite all that, definitely an excellent problem, very sustained, tall enough to get your heart going. Plus there's a nice little stone bench next to it for your buddies so they can sit down and watch you climb.
Stretch
Oct 16, 2009
I thought this thing was pretty scary thank you very much.
Heretic
Oct 16, 2009
Obviously not that scary since you sent.
fraction
Oct 16, 2009
Huh? If you send it, you're not allowed to think it was scary?
Heretic
Oct 19, 2009
NOPE! haha
Stretch
Oct 22, 2009
Uhhh...ok. I did think the last move was the hardest and scariest.
Heretic
Oct 22, 2009
The top-out definitely looks to be the most exciting/scary. I'd probably be breathing pretty hard up there, trying to stay calm
klinefelter
Nov 9, 2011
Originally, this problem had a terrible landing covered in large rocks, making a fall from the top a sure ankle-breaker, and the overall commitment factor far more significant. I can't say I disagree with the cleanup of the landing zone, but it changed the character of this problem big-time. One of my favorite lines.
rtm
Nov 10, 2011
Been seeing that tactic at Tram lately. Disturbing trend!