Fritz Face -- v5.75

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Description

Sidepull crimps to an undercling, then more crimps to a sloper.

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Description stoney point, ME climbing darkside of the moon on the back of split rock, fritz face, or so I am told it is called, and ed's direct, my finally complete project. Also there is the messed up part at the end with castle rock, a slopey sandstone paradise.

Comments

PastaPants May 6, 2010	Me and my buddy sent this problem this week. Doesn't seem like a v6, as I can do it. Guess I'm getting better, or the rating is soft. Either way it's not challenging until the side-pull crimp that magically bites when you crank statically. That was the key for us, locking off on the crimp after your hips are approx as high as the two start holds. Smoothly reach for the sloper, then it's the two hard foot bumps which will allow you to gain the final sloper.
sowr Jun 2, 2010	In Urban Rock it's called "Meathead" - anyone have any advice on which is the correct name? Thanks, Chris Owen.
PastaPants Oct 31, 2010	hi chris, thanks for the guidebook, first of all. i dunno about the dyno, i've never seen it done but ask someone who has more experience there. i prefer a static style anyways, seems more true to the sport of climbing with more balance blah blah but a dyno from that low undercling wold be dope. ask demetrius, he put up the crimp face climb
Tattvamasi Nov 1, 2010	yair is the only one i know who has done it as a dyno. and dameat calls it fritz face if i remember correctly, so i'd go with that.