Yabo Roof Traverse -- v5.75


FA: John Yablonski
Added: December 31, 2009
Updated: September 20, 2010
Grade: v5.75 (3 sends)
Stars:
GPS: 0.88300, 9.94500
Views: 507
Submitted By: Heretic

Description

Sit start at the undercling pinches just right of the crack slots. Traverse left 10 feet, then mantel the same as Yabo Roof. (rTm)

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Comments

Heretic
Jan 3, 2010
This one is SUPER easy for V6? It's more beta-intensive than difficult.
Stretch
Jan 3, 2010
I think the hardest part was getting over the pain of the sharp jugs at the start. Is a crack hand jam on in the middle with the other boulder. I didn't use it but have seen people use it and it makes it look bomber (read: easier).
Heretic
Jan 3, 2010
My sequence avoids the adjacent boulder the whole way through. Even still, I have trouble defending the grade. I showed my beta to a couple of climbing buddies and they agree it's way easy for V6, at most maybe 4+/5-

Despite that, incredibly fun moves throughout! Aside from the sharp jugs at the start, don't see why this problem got such low stars in the guide. =^(
fraction
Jan 3, 2010
@heretic -- if you think it's easier than a v6, why'd you tick it as a v6? Confused...
Heretic
Jan 3, 2010
Tic'ed it the same day I entered it and based it off 8a.nu since the consensus is something around V6/7 (7A/7A+). But I've been giving it more thorough thought over the last couple of days, and I wanted to get more feedback from the guys here. I may downgrade the rating and up the quality.

Stretch
Jan 4, 2010
Let's review...sharp jugs, traverse that tops out at 5 feet...yeah I think 1 star is about right.
Heretic
Jan 5, 2010
They weren't that sharp to me. And a 5-foot topout doesn't really matter if the moves to get there are fun.