Matrix -- v8

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Description

One of the best problem\'s of the area.  The problem faces E/NE and starts at a horizontal rail.  A BIG throw gains a high sloper.  Move up and right for a sketchy top out.

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Zinja Feb 3, 2010	Hey, anybody have beta for topping this thing out? I hit the first dyno 3rd go and am almost finished with the V10 extension but I still have no idea how to finish it from the second ledge...
Tattvamasi Feb 3, 2010	i believe you grab something (i can't remember if it was a crimp or an incut or what) in the right corner of the second ledge, highstep with the left, than reach up around the slope to the left, find something decent, bring right straight up and over and you're done.
Zinja Feb 4, 2010	Of course this pertaining to the hold you don't remember, but there is a crimpy little two finger sidepull just above the far right corner of the second ledge. Do you remember if it was something like this or a hold that you actually pulled down on for that right hand?
Tattvamasi Feb 8, 2010	OK, so ignore what i said before- i deleted the post. I went to steele today and sent it. Beta is as follows, at second rail, with both hands on rail, kick left foot up onto rectangular block on the far left of the seam/ledge. Rock onto it with your right hand pulling down hard on the sloper, reach up and high with the left, either to the first crimp at the obvious flake, or the higher one about 8 inches up and to the right of it, foot hand match with your right side. Then up...
Zinja Feb 8, 2010	Dude you are the man. I'm going Thursday to put it down. Thanks again.
Stretch Apr 3, 2010	I'm having a similar problem on slopey rail. What is the consensus? Does it matter if you go right or left?
Tattvamasi Apr 8, 2010	i actually went pretty much straight up . . .
Zinja Apr 8, 2010	I tried Tattvamasi's beta. Unfortunately I just didn't have the arm span to reach either holds with my left with my foot far out left. Instead what I did was when I dynoed I hit the sloping rail with my left hand. I then matched and threw my left foot on that rectangular block on the left end of the sloping rail. I then put my right hand on the small left-facing sidepull on the right of the sloping rail. Then I dropped my left foot, used shit foot-scummy footholds below me to move my right foot higher, then threw with my right hand to the crimp. I got my hand into the hold, however I have not stuck this move. Actually I should note I broke my ankle doing this the last time...HAVE AT LEAST TWO PADS, ONE OF THE DEATH ROCK! I know this probably seems like common sense, but I only had my one pad and I was hungry to send. Yep, that worked out well. But yeah, when I go back to it this the beta I'm going to use. Good luck man
Tattvamasi Apr 8, 2010	odd, my arm span is only 5"8. but ingenuitive nonetheless