West Coast Bouldering - Problem Database WestCoastBouldering: the #1 site for news and info on bouldering the west http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/problemdb/ en-us Copyright 2010 WestCoastBouldering.com Thu, 11 Mar 2010 14:31:20 -0800 Thu, 11 Mar 2010 02:04:00 -0800 Forum Post: Mt. Woodson: The Eppulator http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=457#p6217 In response to the name of this problem...I recently posted this question on SuperTopo.com, "Okay, let's get the official word right now...What is the name of this problem?"

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And the answer I got from Bob Van Belle was, "that problem never had a name that i ever heard. it was just "the traverse behind shawn's knobs."

As far as what is actually the Eppulator I'm not 100% sure but I believe it's the short steep face on the left side of the road before Don't Rock the Boat at Woodson. The Eppicenter is the white dike that faces the road (east) on the Shawn's Knobs boulder.

]]> by illusiondweller (Posted Thu Mar 11, 2010 2:04 am)<br/>In response to the name of this problem...I recently posted this question on SuperTopo.com, "Okay, let's get the official word right now...What is the name of this problem?"<br /><br /><div class="attachtitle">Attachment:</div><div class="attachcontent"><!-- ia0 -->dyno.jpg<!-- ia0 --></div><br /><br />And the answer I got from Bob Van Belle was, "that problem never had a name that i ever heard. it was just "the traverse behind shawn's knobs."<br /><br />As far as what is actually the Eppulator I'm not 100% sure but I believe it's the short steep face on the left side of the road before Don't Rock the Boat at Woodson. The Eppicenter is the white dike that faces the road (east) on the Shawn's Knobs boulder.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=457"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/1895/illusiondweller">illusiondweller</a><br /><br /> Thu, 11 Mar 2010 01:30:00 -0800 Forum Post: 2010 Mt. Woodson Shindig / Reunion! http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=845#p6216 This should be better/cooler (temp) than the last! The date is set: March 19, 20, 21, 2010 up at Mt. Woodson. Come one, come all, young and old, local and far off. Yet, also, looking for those that attended the last shindig in '07 and those that attended the contest in 1986 and 1990! This should be a historic event for Woodson's history and a chance for the young and old to come together and enjoy what we all can't seem to get enough of! Plans include: guest appearances from internationally acclaimed climber/mountaineer, Jim Bridwell and young local phenom, Chris Lindner, both from the past and present, product giveaways, along with post climb slideshows and party over a three day weekend!

For more info go to: http://supertopo.com/climbers-forum/103 ... union_cont for the ongoing thread and to have your name put on "The List"!

T-Shirts are available now but you must order by this Friday the 12th if you want the tshirt at the mountain by Friday morning the 19th!
http://www.shop.vershke.com/main.sc

]]> by illusiondweller (Posted Thu Mar 11, 2010 1:30 am)<br/>This should be better/cooler (temp) than the last! The date is set: March 19, 20, 21, 2010 up at Mt. Woodson. Come one, come all, young and old, local and far off. Yet, also, looking for those that attended the last shindig in '07 and those that attended the contest in 1986 and 1990! This should be a historic event for Woodson's history and a chance for the young and old to come together and enjoy what we all can't seem to get enough of! Plans include: guest appearances from internationally acclaimed climber/mountaineer, Jim Bridwell and young local phenom, Chris Lindner, both from the past and present, product giveaways, along with post climb slideshows and party over a three day weekend!<br /><br />For more info go to: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1036931/2010_Mt_Woodson_Shindig_-_1986_-_90_Reunion_cont">http://supertopo.com/climbers-forum/103 ... union_cont</a><!-- m --> for the ongoing thread and to have your name put on "The List"!<br /><br />T-Shirts are available now but you must order by this Friday the 12th if you want the tshirt at the mountain by Friday morning the 19th!<br /><!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.shop.vershke.com/main.sc">http://www.shop.vershke.com/main.sc</a><!-- m --><br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=845"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/1895/illusiondweller">illusiondweller</a><br /><br /> Sat, 06 Mar 2010 22:17:00 -0800 Forum Post: Best Spots Near Thousand Oaks http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=844#p6215 stoney point is 20 mins tops from t.o., outside of that you have the malibu creek and the malibu tunnel boulders off of las virgenes. temporal boulders 5 mins up mullholland from leo carrillo state beach. about 25 mins from t.o. For the v3-v4 range you cant beat stoney though. WAIT ATLEAST 2-3 DAYS AFTER RAIN at all the areas except for malibu creek as it is sandstone and extremely fragile when saturated.

short list of high quality 3-4's
The Crack v3-stoney
The Corner v3-stoney
Johnson Arete v4(-v6 depending on who you talk to. regardless its awesome and relatively easy)-stoney point
Kodas Corner v3-stoney
Standard Route v3-stoney
The Prow v3-Malibu Tunnels
Lycra Boy v3-Malibu Tunnels
X Problem v2/3-Malibu Tunnels (downstream side of test tube boulder)

]]> by thatonekid (Posted Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:17 pm)<br/>stoney point is 20 mins tops from t.o., outside of that you have the malibu creek and the malibu tunnel boulders off of las virgenes. temporal boulders 5 mins up mullholland from leo carrillo state beach. about 25 mins from t.o. For the v3-v4 range you cant beat stoney though. WAIT <span style="font-weight: bold">AT</span><span style="font-weight: bold"><span style="text-decoration: underline">LEAST</span></span> 2-3 DAYS AFTER RAIN at all the areas except for malibu creek as it is sandstone and extremely fragile when saturated.<br /><br />short list of high quality 3-4's<br />The Crack v3-stoney<br />The Corner v3-stoney<br />Johnson Arete v4(-v6 depending on who you talk to. regardless its awesome and relatively easy)-stoney point<br />Kodas Corner v3-stoney<br />Standard Route v3-stoney<br />The Prow v3-Malibu Tunnels<br />Lycra Boy v3-Malibu Tunnels<br />X Problem v2/3-Malibu Tunnels (downstream side of test tube boulder)<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=844"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/692/thatonekid">thatonekid</a><br /><br /> Mon, 01 Mar 2010 22:02:00 -0800 Forum Post: Wall & Holds http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=837#p6213 well SHIT!! happy times brother! As long as you're happy, good luck out there and God bless~

]]> by Heretic (Posted Mon Mar 01, 2010 10:02 pm)<br/>well SHIT!! happy times brother! As long as you're happy, good luck out there and God bless~<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=837"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/718/Heretic">Heretic</a><br /><br /> Mon, 01 Mar 2010 01:45:00 -0800 Forum Post: Guidebooks Revisited http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=821#p6212 Thanks Alan, I appreciate the clarity. I was working on two lines and hope to return if they haven't been done. Even if they have, it would be a pleasure to return and climb all the same. Blacks is beautiful. Well, second to da tree. ;)

]]> by Satyagraha (Posted Mon Mar 01, 2010 1:45 am)<br/>Thanks Alan, I appreciate the clarity. I was working on two lines and hope to return if they haven't been done. Even if they have, it would be a pleasure to return and climb all the same. Blacks is beautiful. Well, second to da tree. <img src="./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif" alt=";)" title="Wink" /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=821"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/30/Satyagraha">Satyagraha</a><br /><br /> Sun, 28 Feb 2010 00:00:00 -0800 New Send: Don't Mess With Texas http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/261/Dont-Mess-With-Texas <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1/Joshua-Tree">Joshua Tree</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/99/Roadside-Rocks">Roadside Rocks</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/259/Texas-Boulder">Texas Boulder</a> > Don't Mess With Texas<br />Sent by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/718/Heretic">Heretic</a><br /><br />Suggested Grade: v1 / Consensus grade: v1<br />Suggested Stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_2_0.gif" /> / Consensus stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_1_5.gif" /> Sun, 28 Feb 2010 00:00:00 -0800 New Send: Alexandria http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/623/Alexandria <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1/Joshua-Tree">Joshua Tree</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/137/Eastern-Territories">Eastern Territories</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/621/Valley-of-the-Kings">Valley of the Kings</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/622/The-Rosetta-Stone">The Rosetta Stone</a> > Alexandria<br />Sent by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/5/aron">a.ron</a><br /><br />Suggested Grade: v5 / Consensus grade: v6<br />Suggested Stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_4_0.gif" /> / Consensus stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_5_0.gif" /> Thu, 25 Feb 2010 17:53:47 -0800 Photo: The Tomahawk http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/photo/view/4b8729aa53e16 <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1/Joshua-Tree">Joshua Tree</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/68/Hidden-Valley-Campground">Hidden Valley Campground</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1989/Campsite-21">Campsite #21</a> > The Tomahawk<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/718/Heretic">Heretic</a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/photo/view/4b8729aa53e16"><img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/upload/4b8729aa53e16_thumblarge.jpg" /></a> Thu, 25 Feb 2010 17:53:11 -0800 Problem: The Tomahawk http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1990/The-Tomahawk <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1/Joshua-Tree">Joshua Tree</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/68/Hidden-Valley-Campground">Hidden Valley Campground</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1989/Campsite-21">Campsite #21</a> > The Tomahawk<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/718/Heretic">Heretic</a><br />Grade: v7, Stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_2_0.gif"><br /><br />A thin, overhung arete to some pretty good lieback slopers. Thu, 25 Feb 2010 17:52:07 -0800 Area: Campsite #21 http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1989/Campsite-21 <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1/Joshua-Tree">Joshua Tree</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/68/Hidden-Valley-Campground">Hidden Valley Campground</a> > Campsite #21<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/718/Heretic">Heretic</a><br />A couple of sites up from Stem Gem. Look to the right toward the big slab wall. Thu, 25 Feb 2010 11:50:00 -0800 Forum Post: Best Sloper Problem in So Cal http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=823#p6208 I'm gonna say no on this one :D

]]> by a.ron (Posted Thu Feb 25, 2010 11:50 am)<br/>I'm gonna say no on this one <img src="./images/smilies/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" title="Very Happy" /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=823"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/5/aron">a.ron</a><br /><br /> Wed, 24 Feb 2010 21:43:59 -0800 Problem: How's Your Mama http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1986/Hows-Your-Mama <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1/Joshua-Tree">Joshua Tree</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/38/The-Outback">The Outback</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1143/Family-Boulder">Family Boulder</a> > How's Your Mama<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/5/aron">a.ron</a><br />Grade: v4, Stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_3_5.gif"><br /><br />Just right of 'how's your papa'. Tue, 23 Feb 2010 19:24:00 -0800 Forum Post: Jtree! http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=820#p6205 The sit is harder than it looks. The holds are nice, and so it seems reasonable. I've tried it, and what I found is the body position is awkward at best. Best of luck to you.

]]> by Satyagraha (Posted Tue Feb 23, 2010 7:24 pm)<br/>The sit is harder than it looks. The holds are nice, and so it seems reasonable. I've tried it, and what I found is the body position is awkward at best. Best of luck to you.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=820"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/30/Satyagraha">Satyagraha</a><br /><br /> Mon, 22 Feb 2010 09:11:31 -0800 Problem: Dark Angel http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1153/Dark-Angel <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1254/LA-Orange-County">LA / Orange County</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/10/Stoney-Point">Stoney Point</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/62/Pile-Ups">Pile Ups</a> > Dark Angel<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/792/JarodArnsten">JarodArnsten</a><br />Grade: v10, Stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_4_0.gif"><br /><br />Start on the left with a left hand jug move right to a crimp dead hang the crimp rose move to an undercling crimp with the left hand move right hand to heinous sloper in the face then bust big move right again to a gaston at full length reach then left to a good incut crimp then top of mantle. 2 accents so far Jarod Arnsten and Daniel Woods V10/11 Sun, 21 Feb 2010 23:17:00 -0800 Forum Post: why? http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=842#p6203 i prefer the term 'predator'.

]]> by a.ron (Posted Sun Feb 21, 2010 11:17 pm)<br/>i prefer the term 'predator'.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=842"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/5/aron">a.ron</a><br /><br /> Sat, 20 Feb 2010 00:00:00 -0800 New Send: Breathless http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1939/Breathless <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1/Joshua-Tree">Joshua Tree</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/68/Hidden-Valley-Campground">Hidden Valley Campground</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1938/Grit-Rock">Grit Rock</a> > Breathless<br />Sent by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/5/aron">a.ron</a><br /><br />Suggested Grade: v5 / Consensus grade: v5<br />Suggested Stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_0_0.gif" /> / Consensus stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_0_5.gif" /> Fri, 19 Feb 2010 00:29:33 -0800 Problem: Fidelman Arete http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1985/Fidelman-Arete <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1/Joshua-Tree">Joshua Tree</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/114/Ryan-Campground">Ryan Campground</a> > Fidelman Arete<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/718/Heretic">Heretic</a><br />Grade: v1, Stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_1_5.gif"><br /><br />A juggy, overhanging buttress that is deceptively difficult (guide pg 186) Fri, 19 Feb 2010 00:00:00 -0800 New Send: Pump Rock Traverse http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/251/Pump-Rock-Traverse <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1254/LA-Orange-County">LA / Orange County</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/10/Stoney-Point">Stoney Point</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/250/Pump-Rock">Pump Rock</a> > Pump Rock Traverse<br />Sent by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/1889/timmmyfosho">timmmyfosho</a><br /><br />Suggested Grade: v2 / Consensus grade: v2.5<br />Suggested Stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_3_0.gif" /> / Consensus stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_2_5.gif" /> Thu, 18 Feb 2010 16:36:20 -0800 Comment: White Angel http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1984/White-Angel/#comments <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1254/LA-Orange-County">LA / Orange County</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/10/Stoney-Point">Stoney Point</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/62/Pile-Ups">Pile Ups</a> > White Angel<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/846/Tattvamasi">Tattvamasi</a><br /><br />Dark angel is Jarod's eliminate variation which heads up before even reaching sledgehammer (or pile lieback for that matter). And Weston, Julian & Michael listed it (white angel) as 10. Thu, 18 Feb 2010 14:54:15 -0800 Comment: White Angel http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1984/White-Angel/#comments <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1254/LA-Orange-County">LA / Orange County</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/10/Stoney-Point">Stoney Point</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/62/Pile-Ups">Pile Ups</a> > White Angel<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/692/thatonekid">thatonekid</a><br /><br />and this is already in as the dark angel traverse... what gives? and weston did it last year, taylor fell off the last move a few times in a row, pretty sure weston said both of the bautista's flashed or 2;go'd it. Thu, 18 Feb 2010 14:52:25 -0800 Comment: White Angel http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1984/White-Angel/#comments <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1254/LA-Orange-County">LA / Orange County</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/10/Stoney-Point">Stoney Point</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/62/Pile-Ups">Pile Ups</a> > White Angel<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/692/thatonekid">thatonekid</a><br /><br />actually ed's traverse is the next boulder past that (B1 boulder), this is what meathead calls the paul anderson traverse... Thu, 18 Feb 2010 08:28:40 -0800 Comment: White Angel http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1984/White-Angel/#comments <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1254/LA-Orange-County">LA / Orange County</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/10/Stoney-Point">Stoney Point</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/62/Pile-Ups">Pile Ups</a> > White Angel<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/3/rtm">rtm</a><br /><br />According to Meathead, this problem is Ed's Traverse (v9) Thu, 18 Feb 2010 01:43:00 -0800 Forum Post: fithomeless.com http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=839#p6196 that one isn't taken yet!

heres the link
http://www.godaddy.com/domains/searchre ... x?ci=16811

enjoy ;)

]]> by Tattvamasi (Posted Thu Feb 18, 2010 1:43 am)<br/>that one isn't taken yet!<br /><br />heres the link<br /><!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.godaddy.com/domains/searchresults2.aspx?ci=16811">http://www.godaddy.com/domains/searchre ... x?ci=16811</a><!-- m --><br /><br />enjoy <img src="./images/smilies/icon_wink.gif" alt=";)" title="Wink" /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=839"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/846/Tattvamasi">Tattvamasi</a><br /><br /> Wed, 17 Feb 2010 23:59:24 -0800 Problem: White Angel http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1984/White-Angel <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1254/LA-Orange-County">LA / Orange County</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/10/Stoney-Point">Stoney Point</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/62/Pile-Ups">Pile Ups</a> > White Angel<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/846/Tattvamasi">Tattvamasi</a><br />Grade: v11, Stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_4_0.gif"><br /><br />Probably the Pile Up's traverse. But who knows? Either way Laura griffith claimed the FA a few years back. Starts on Pile driver jug and traverses to the right (low holds) into sledgehammer. I am listing her original rating for this. Consensus (based on 8a sends) places it more on the hard V9-soft V10 range. Anyone who has sent it relatively recently (past two years or so, I hear that about three - four years ago there was significant hold breakage) should chime in on the matter. Mon, 15 Feb 2010 11:02:00 -0800 Forum Post: NEW SO CAL COMP SERIES!!!! http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=841#p6195 Image

]]> by a.ron (Posted Mon Feb 15, 2010 11:02 am)<br/><img src="http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff241/aroncouzens/rockcity.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=841"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/5/aron">a.ron</a><br /><br /> Mon, 15 Feb 2010 00:00:00 -0800 New Send: Wormhole http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1941/Wormhole <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1/Joshua-Tree">Joshua Tree</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/194/Planet-X">Planet X</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/559/Planet-X-Wall">Planet X Wall</a> > Wormhole<br />Sent by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/718/Heretic">Heretic</a><br /><br />Suggested Grade: v1 / Consensus grade: v0.5<br />Suggested Stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_3_0.gif" /> / Consensus stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_2_5.gif" /> Mon, 15 Feb 2010 00:00:00 -0800 New Send: Fidelman Arete http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1985/Fidelman-Arete <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1/Joshua-Tree">Joshua Tree</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/114/Ryan-Campground">Ryan Campground</a> > Fidelman Arete<br />Sent by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/718/Heretic">Heretic</a><br /><br />Suggested Grade: v1 / Consensus grade: v1<br />Suggested Stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_2_0.gif" /> / Consensus stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_1_5.gif" /> Fri, 12 Feb 2010 20:45:00 -0800 Forum Post: tramway 411 http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=838#p6188 timmy, DO NOT believe these guys, they have not been up to the tram lately!
it is nigh unto PERFECT for you to head up there for some bouldering with your gal! she will LOVE the scenery, and you will crank away in solitude since everyone else is scared of snow!!!! forget jtree, go to the Tram bro!!

if her idea of a great time is postholing thru 4 feet of snow so she can climb on the top 2 feet of a dripping wet boulder, then you must go to tram! why go to boring old jtree, where all the factors are know? go for tha X factor man! tram! you might even get to be eaten by a mountain lion, or watch your gal be consumed while you throw rocks!!!
i say tram...

]]> by oldskool5150 (Posted Fri Feb 12, 2010 8:45 pm)<br/>timmy, DO NOT believe these guys, they have not been up to the tram lately!<br />it is nigh unto PERFECT for you to head up there for some bouldering with your gal! she will LOVE the scenery, and you will crank away in solitude since everyone else is scared of snow!!!! forget jtree, go to the Tram bro!!<br /><br />if her idea of a great time is postholing thru 4 feet of snow so she can climb on the top 2 feet of a dripping wet boulder, then you must go to tram! why go to boring old jtree, where all the factors are know? go for tha X factor man! tram! you might even get to be eaten by a mountain lion, or watch your gal be consumed while you throw rocks!!!<br />i say tram...<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=838"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/14/oldskool5150">oldskool5150</a><br /><br /> Fri, 12 Feb 2010 00:00:00 -0800 New Send: Attractive Brunette http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/392/Attractive-Brunette <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1/Joshua-Tree">Joshua Tree</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/98/Western-Territories">Western Territories</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/388/Chocolate-Boulders">Chocolate Boulders</a> > Attractive Brunette<br />Sent by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/943/pdxmirage">pdxmirage</a><br /><br />Suggested Grade: v2 / Consensus grade: v2<br />Suggested Stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_1_0.gif" /> / Consensus stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_1_0.gif" /> Fri, 12 Feb 2010 00:00:00 -0800 New Send: Yabo Roof http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/221/Yabo-Roof <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1/Joshua-Tree">Joshua Tree</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/100/JBMFP">JBMFP</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/220/Yabo-Roof">Yabo Roof</a> > Yabo Roof<br />Sent by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/943/pdxmirage">pdxmirage</a><br /><br />Suggested Grade: v3 / Consensus grade: v3.2<br />Suggested Stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_3_0.gif" /> / Consensus stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_2_5.gif" /> Tue, 09 Feb 2010 18:59:08 -0800 Problem: Man of Steele http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1981/Man-of-Steele <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/384/Steele-Valley">Steele Valley</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/417/Parking-Lot-Boulders">Parking Lot Boulders</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1579/Superman-Boulder">Superman Boulder</a> > Man of Steele<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/846/Tattvamasi">Tattvamasi</a><br />Grade: v8, Stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_3_0.gif"><br /><br />Classic crimp problem, starts on an undercling and a side pull, stacked pad start. To the left of the arete problem Superman and the right of Lois Lane. The rating felt a bit stiff, but thats just my thoughts. Tue, 09 Feb 2010 18:51:39 -0800 Photo: Lois Lane http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/photo/view/4b721f3a95dae <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/384/Steele-Valley">Steele Valley</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/417/Parking-Lot-Boulders">Parking Lot Boulders</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1579/Superman-Boulder">Superman Boulder</a> > Lois Lane<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/846/Tattvamasi">Tattvamasi</a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/photo/view/4b721f3a95dae"><img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/upload/4b721f3a95dae_thumblarge.jpg" /></a> Tue, 09 Feb 2010 18:50:33 -0800 Problem: Lois Lane http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1982/Lois-Lane <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/384/Steele-Valley">Steele Valley</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/417/Parking-Lot-Boulders">Parking Lot Boulders</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1579/Superman-Boulder">Superman Boulder</a> > Lois Lane<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/846/Tattvamasi">Tattvamasi</a><br />Grade: v4, Stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_3_0.gif"><br /><br />Standing start on large patina plate in the center of the downhill face, to the left of Man of Steele, and right of the left arete. Listed as V3/4 - the problem has either had breakages or sandbagging, it feels just as hard as other Steele 5's. Tue, 09 Feb 2010 18:48:33 -0800 Photo: Man of Steele http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/photo/view/4b721e806b5fb <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/384/Steele-Valley">Steele Valley</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/417/Parking-Lot-Boulders">Parking Lot Boulders</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1579/Superman-Boulder">Superman Boulder</a> > Man of Steele<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/846/Tattvamasi">Tattvamasi</a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/photo/view/4b721e806b5fb"><img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/upload/4b721e806b5fb_thumblarge.jpg" /></a> Tue, 09 Feb 2010 18:47:47 -0800 Problem: Kryptonite http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1983/Kryptonite <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/384/Steele-Valley">Steele Valley</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/417/Parking-Lot-Boulders">Parking Lot Boulders</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1579/Superman-Boulder">Superman Boulder</a> > Kryptonite <br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/846/Tattvamasi">Tattvamasi</a><br />Grade: v8, Stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_3_0.gif"><br /><br />Start on the face around the corner and to the right of Man of Steele, begin spanning obvious large patina plate on excellent sidepulls. Reachy. . . Mon, 08 Feb 2010 20:05:24 -0800 Comment: Matrix http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/426/Matrix/#comments <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/384/Steele-Valley">Steele Valley</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/406/Matrix-Boulder">Matrix Boulder</a> > Matrix<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/1842/Zinja">Zinja</a><br /><br />Dude you are the man. I'm going Thursday to put it down. Thanks again. Mon, 08 Feb 2010 19:40:29 -0800 Comment: Matrix http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/426/Matrix/#comments <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/384/Steele-Valley">Steele Valley</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/406/Matrix-Boulder">Matrix Boulder</a> > Matrix<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/846/Tattvamasi">Tattvamasi</a><br /><br />OK, so ignore what i said before- i deleted the post.<br /> <br /> I went to steele today and sent it. <br /> <br /> Beta is as follows, at second rail, with both hands on rail, kick left foot up onto rectangular block on the far left of the seam/ledge. Rock onto it with your right hand pulling down hard on the sloper, reach up and high with the left, either to the first crimp at the obvious flake, or the higher one about 8 inches up and to the right of it, foot hand match with your right side. Then up... Mon, 08 Feb 2010 00:00:00 -0800 New Send: Matrix http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/426/Matrix <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/384/Steele-Valley">Steele Valley</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/406/Matrix-Boulder">Matrix Boulder</a> > Matrix<br />Sent by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/846/Tattvamasi">Tattvamasi</a><br /><br />Suggested Grade: v8 / Consensus grade: v8<br />Suggested Stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_5_0.gif" /> / Consensus stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_4_0.gif" /> Mon, 08 Feb 2010 00:00:00 -0800 New Send: holy roller http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1980/holy-roller <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/384/Steele-Valley">Steele Valley</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/416/Lower-Slope">Lower Slope</a> > holy roller<br />Sent by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/692/thatonekid">thatonekid</a><br /><br />Suggested Grade: v6 / Consensus grade: v6<br />Suggested Stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_3_0.gif" /> / Consensus stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_3_0.gif" /> Sun, 07 Feb 2010 22:20:56 -0800 Problem: holy roller http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1980/holy-roller <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/384/Steele-Valley">Steele Valley</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/416/Lower-Slope">Lower Slope</a> > holy roller<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/5/aron">a.ron</a><br />Grade: v6, Stars: <img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/images/stars_3_0.gif"><br /><br />Next block up from elevation. Start with hands on big flake, go up to small crimps around bulge and top out. Sat, 06 Feb 2010 15:34:26 -0800 Comment: The Hunk http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1844/The-Hunk/#comments <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1258/Sierras">Sierras</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/167/Bishop">Bishop</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/168/Buttermilks">Buttermilks</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/347/Sunshine-Hunk">Sunshine / Hunk</a> > The Hunk<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/21/fraction">fraction</a><br /><br />Love love love this problem! Fri, 05 Feb 2010 13:07:16 -0800 Comment: Dominated http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1979/Dominated/#comments <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1258/Sierras">Sierras</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1259/Yosemite-Valley">Yosemite Valley</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1315/Camp-4">Camp 4</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1391/Camp-4-West">Camp 4 West</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1359/Wine-Boulder">Wine Boulder</a> > Dominated<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/178/OBdizzy">OBdizzy</a><br /><br />Not that I'll ever know (sadly), but this thing looks 5 stars to me. Thu, 04 Feb 2010 14:45:56 -0800 Video: Dominated http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1979/Dominated/#videos ]]> <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1258/Sierras">Sierras</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1259/Yosemite-Valley">Yosemite Valley</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1315/Camp-4">Camp 4</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1391/Camp-4-West">Camp 4 West</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1359/Wine-Boulder">Wine Boulder</a> > Dominated<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/21/fraction">fraction</a><br /><br />Video is located <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1979#videos">HERE</a> Thu, 04 Feb 2010 14:44:34 -0800 Video: Stained Glass http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1163/Stained-Glass/#videos ]]> <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1258/Sierras">Sierras</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/167/Bishop">Bishop</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/168/Buttermilks">Buttermilks</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/336/Stained-Glass-Area">Stained Glass Area</a> > Stained Glass<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/21/fraction">fraction</a><br /><br />Video is located <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1163#videos">HERE</a> Thu, 04 Feb 2010 00:56:25 -0800 Comment: Matrix http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/426/Matrix/#comments <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/384/Steele-Valley">Steele Valley</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/406/Matrix-Boulder">Matrix Boulder</a> > Matrix<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/1842/Zinja">Zinja</a><br /><br />Of course this pertaining to the hold you don't remember, but there is a crimpy little two finger sidepull just above the far right corner of the second ledge. Do you remember if it was something like this or a hold that you actually pulled down on for that right hand? Wed, 03 Feb 2010 16:47:17 -0800 Comment: Matrix Reloaded http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/467/Matrix-Reloaded/#comments <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/384/Steele-Valley">Steele Valley</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/406/Matrix-Boulder">Matrix Boulder</a> > Matrix Reloaded<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/846/Tattvamasi">Tattvamasi</a><br /><br />this starts on the corner to the left of the problem Tue, 02 Feb 2010 14:19:00 -0800 Forum Post: Can anyone message me Louie Anderson &/or Craig Fry's Email? http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=826#p6166 craig posts on st as dr.f

]]> by klk (Posted Tue Feb 02, 2010 2:19 pm)<br/>craig posts on st as dr.f<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=826"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/598/klk">klk</a><br /><br /> Wed, 27 Jan 2010 08:50:00 -0800 Forum Post: rTm http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=828#p6157
a.ron wrote:
It's like a climbers Disneyland!


Not a bad analogy...lot's of classic "rides" and a lot of shitty ones.

]]> by Stretch (Posted Wed Jan 27, 2010 8:50 am)<br/><div class="quotetitle">a.ron wrote:</div><div class="quotecontent">It's like a climbers Disneyland! <br /></div><br /><br />Not a bad analogy...lot's of classic "rides" and a lot of shitty ones.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=828"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/24/Stretch">Stretch</a><br /><br /> Tue, 26 Jan 2010 16:31:24 -0800 Photo: Yabo Roof http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/photo/view/4b5f895630aaa <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1/Joshua-Tree">Joshua Tree</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/100/JBMFP">JBMFP</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/220/Yabo-Roof">Yabo Roof</a> > Yabo Roof<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/943/pdxmirage">pdxmirage</a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/photo/view/4b5f895630aaa"><img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/upload/4b5f895630aaa_thumblarge.jpg" /></a> Mon, 25 Jan 2010 15:23:00 -0800 Forum Post: Hueco without reservations - 30 Jan through 06 Feb http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=827#p6152 yeah, yeah. i should have planned better. anyone got any suggestions or know of anyone with some extra reservations between 30 Jan and 06 Feb. Had been planning on using someone else's reservations but that might not pan out the way I thought.

I know that I can book commercial tours witohut reservations, but do those fill up?

edit: I guess I should note it's me + 1

]]> by 2stars (Posted Mon Jan 25, 2010 3:23 pm)<br/>yeah, yeah. i should have planned better. anyone got any suggestions or know of anyone with some extra reservations between 30 Jan and 06 Feb. Had been planning on using someone else's reservations but that might not pan out the way I thought. <br /><br />I know that I can book commercial tours witohut reservations, but do those fill up?<br /><br />edit: I guess I should note it's me + 1<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=827"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/53/2stars">2stars</a><br /><br /> Mon, 25 Jan 2010 15:16:48 -0800 Video: Blank Generation SDS http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/870/Blank-Generation-SDS/#videos ]]> <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1254/LA-Orange-County">LA / Orange County</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/383/Horse-Flats">Horse Flats</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/489/Blank-Generation">Blank Generation</a> > Blank Generation SDS<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/21/fraction">fraction</a><br /><br />Video is located <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/870#videos">HERE</a> Tue, 19 Jan 2010 10:43:00 -0800 Forum Post: star ratings and their purpose? http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=223#p6148 I thought Alan was a star?

When I visit an area that I am unfamiliar with, I find quality ratings to be useful. Not that I disregard low/no star climbs, but in hopes of seeing/climbing on the better of what an area has to offer, I do use stars to help me plan my limited time. Once at a location though, I visually inspect the climbs for myself and climb whatever looks good.

I find that, for the most part, I do agree with star ratings in most guides, maybe about 75% of the time. Enough to trust them.

One would hope that guide authors use consensus opinions to 'star' climbs, although, given human nature, its prolly reasonable to assume that any given author will give more weight to their own opinion. Especially when it involves their own routes!!

]]> by rtm (Posted Tue Jan 19, 2010 10:43 am)<br/>I thought Alan was a star?<br /><br />When I visit an area that I am unfamiliar with, I find quality ratings to be useful. Not that I disregard low/no star climbs, but in hopes of seeing/climbing on the better of what an area has to offer, I do use stars to help me plan my limited time. Once at a location though, I visually inspect the climbs for myself and climb whatever looks good. <br /><br />I find that, for the most part, I do agree with star ratings in most guides, maybe about 75% of the time. Enough to trust them. <br /><br />One would hope that guide authors use consensus opinions to 'star' climbs, although, given human nature, its prolly reasonable to assume that any given author will give more weight to their own opinion. Especially when it involves their own routes!!<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=223"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/3/rtm">rtm</a><br /><br /> Fri, 15 Jan 2010 13:01:00 -0800 Forum Post: Organic crashpads... http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=790#p6138 I missed this thread but would still like to chime in. I'm sure nsmonkeygirl that you've already bought a crashpad. Anyways, there are basically only a few types of pad out there. The dominant style is an open cell foam pad, top layer approx. 1 inch closed cell foam, with primarily shoulder straps. This type of pad can not carry too much since the load is on the shoulders. Regarding the foam, the heavier it is, the better it is. That's a bit generalized, but is mostly true. I use a flashed pad (I'm also biased in that I'm one of their product testers), a shogun, and the foam has been seriously used for maybe 5 or more years, and I've had them replace the cover once, last month, and the top closed cell layer some time early last year, I think. The open cell foam used by flashed is one of the heavier if not the heaviest out there, but it's also basically bombproof. It's in perfect condition to this day. All closed cell breaks down, and it's supposed to do that. It takes the brunt of the shock on impact and needs to be replaced on occasion. The outer cover was still usable, but flashed replaced mine to test the addition of top supports that pull the upper part close to my back and shoulders.

Of the two types of conventional pads, the heavier ones with better open cell foam need more support for carrying them. The flashed conventional pads are the only ones that I know of with a real or serious hip harness. The lighter you are and the less capable your shoulders are for taking the weight of pad and gear, a hip system makes a huge difference. All their pads with full hip support ride very well. I can easily hike for 2 hours one way, seriously, without any issues and carrying a full day's load of water, camera stuff, food and gear.

the other type of pad is an air pad system, and I only know of flashed air pad that's in production, but I'm sure someone might fill me in on others. It's quite different in characteristics and is heavier than other pads. The primary strength of the air pad is that it absorbs almost all the kinetic energy on impact. What this means is that you don't get that rebound shock from the open cell foam trying to return to it's original form. For most peeps (younger mainly) it's no big deal to deal with, but in the long run, there is the possibility that the conventional pads could cause knee and lower back issues. Of course this is premised on the fact that one is actually falling from a decent height repeatedly. Also, the edges on the air pad don't hold up to a fixed corner or edge, so it's very forgiving if you land on the edge. the downside is it because it doesn't hold up, pushed up against a conventional pad will expose the conventional pad's edge. The higher you fall, the better the air pad is, IMHO. The air pad also doesn't hold a rigid base or form against irregular surfaces. This can be both good and bad. The good is that it'll conform and deform on impact when the surface is angled--meaning it acts as if the surface is flat. A conventional pad will literally "kick" you off and down the slope of the pad. The bad is that the air will not establish a rigid and flat surface over irregularities. Sharp objects will cause the pad to not be as effective and will potentially create a risk of impact if not fixed by other means (mainly to use a conventional pad to flatten the area first). The air pad is expensive. The latest design of the airpad now rides very good. It has the upper straps to pull the top close, and it uses the full suspension.

After using the air pad, I feel it's the best there is. It has limitations, that should improve with better technology and design. What makes it so good has everything to do with the impact feel. I typically take one air pad and one conventional pad. Because it's expensive, I think it's best suited for those wanting to do highballs. because the edges are forgiving, it's perfect as the top layer and strike zone sitting over conventional pads.

A buddy of mine recently had his lower spine fuzed, after twice rupturing a disc. He loves highballs and he's not afraid to go for it. It cost him. He uses the air pad now and swears by it. No one can say what the causes are for his back problem, but I really do think, anecdotally, that had he had an air pad the whole time, he wouldn't have a fuzed spine today. just my opinion. of course, how one falls has tons to do with impact as well as one's genes, I'm sure.

I assume by your name that you're a chick, if so, the temple works very well and isn't a small pad. I've had several women say it's their best crash pad and they love the way it carries. Their small and their shoulders took a beating with the conventional designs sans serious waist strap.

rm

]]> by Satyagraha (Posted Fri Jan 15, 2010 1:01 pm)<br/>I missed this thread but would still like to chime in. I'm sure nsmonkeygirl that you've already bought a crashpad. Anyways, there are basically only a few types of pad out there. The dominant style is an open cell foam pad, top layer approx. 1 inch closed cell foam, with primarily shoulder straps. This type of pad can not carry too much since the load is on the shoulders. Regarding the foam, the heavier it is, the better it is. That's a bit generalized, but is mostly true. I use a flashed pad (I'm also biased in that I'm one of their product testers), a shogun, and the foam has been seriously used for maybe 5 or more years, and I've had them replace the cover once, last month, and the top closed cell layer some time early last year, I think. The open cell foam used by flashed is one of the heavier if not the heaviest out there, but it's also basically bombproof. It's in perfect condition to this day. All closed cell breaks down, and it's supposed to do that. It takes the brunt of the shock on impact and needs to be replaced on occasion. The outer cover was still usable, but flashed replaced mine to test the addition of top supports that pull the upper part close to my back and shoulders. <br /><br />Of the two types of conventional pads, the heavier ones with better open cell foam need more support for carrying them. The flashed conventional pads are the only ones that I know of with a real or serious hip harness. The lighter you are and the less capable your shoulders are for taking the weight of pad and gear, a hip system makes a huge difference. All their pads with full hip support ride very well. I can easily hike for 2 hours one way, seriously, without any issues and carrying a full day's load of water, camera stuff, food and gear. <br /><br />the other type of pad is an air pad system, and I only know of flashed air pad that's in production, but I'm sure someone might fill me in on others. It's quite different in characteristics and is heavier than other pads. The primary strength of the air pad is that it absorbs almost all the kinetic energy on impact. What this means is that you don't get that rebound shock from the open cell foam trying to return to it's original form. For most peeps (younger mainly) it's no big deal to deal with, but in the long run, there is the possibility that the conventional pads could cause knee and lower back issues. Of course this is premised on the fact that one is actually falling from a decent height repeatedly. Also, the edges on the air pad don't hold up to a fixed corner or edge, so it's very forgiving if you land on the edge. the downside is it because it doesn't hold up, pushed up against a conventional pad will expose the conventional pad's edge. The higher you fall, the better the air pad is, IMHO. The air pad also doesn't hold a rigid base or form against irregular surfaces. This can be both good and bad. The good is that it'll conform and deform on impact when the surface is angled--meaning it acts as if the surface is flat. A conventional pad will literally "kick" you off and down the slope of the pad. The bad is that the air will not establish a rigid and flat surface over irregularities. Sharp objects will cause the pad to not be as effective and will potentially create a risk of impact if not fixed by other means (mainly to use a conventional pad to flatten the area first). The air pad is expensive. The latest design of the airpad now rides very good. It has the upper straps to pull the top close, and it uses the full suspension. <br /><br />After using the air pad, I feel it's the best there is. It has limitations, that should improve with better technology and design. What makes it so good has everything to do with the impact feel. I typically take one air pad and one conventional pad. Because it's expensive, I think it's best suited for those wanting to do highballs. because the edges are forgiving, it's perfect as the top layer and strike zone sitting over conventional pads. <br /><br />A buddy of mine recently had his lower spine fuzed, after twice rupturing a disc. He loves highballs and he's not afraid to go for it. It cost him. He uses the air pad now and swears by it. No one can say what the causes are for his back problem, but I really do think, anecdotally, that had he had an air pad the whole time, he wouldn't have a fuzed spine today. just my opinion. of course, how one falls has tons to do with impact as well as one's genes, I'm sure. <br /><br />I assume by your name that you're a chick, if so, the temple works very well and isn't a small pad. I've had several women say it's their best crash pad and they love the way it carries. Their small and their shoulders took a beating with the conventional designs sans serious waist strap. <br /><br />rm<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=790"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/30/Satyagraha">Satyagraha</a><br /><br /> Tue, 12 Jan 2010 10:27:00 -0800 Forum Post: Beta Request: Relic http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=819#p6128 holy F$%k, I wrote all that!

I got some somewhere, if I ever have more than 5 minutes to dedicate to internet play, I'll get them up!

]]> by rtm (Posted Tue Jan 12, 2010 10:27 am)<br/>holy F$%k, I wrote all that!<br /><br />I got some somewhere, if I ever have more than 5 minutes to dedicate to internet play, I'll get them up!<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=819"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/3/rtm">rtm</a><br /><br /> Wed, 06 Jan 2010 00:50:00 -0800 Forum Post: Joshua Tree http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=822#p6104 I usually stay at one of the following:
- parents house
- sisters house
- uncles house
- grandmas house
- other grandmas house

So if one is full, there are many other options.

Hope this helps!! joe1

]]> by a.ron (Posted Wed Jan 06, 2010 12:50 am)<br/>I usually stay at one of the following:<br />- parents house<br />- sisters house<br />- uncles house<br />- grandmas house<br />- other grandmas house<br /><br />So if one is full, there are many other options.<br /><br />Hope this helps!! <img src="./images/smilies/biggrinjester[1].gif" alt="joe1" title="wiseguy" /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=822"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/5/aron">a.ron</a><br /><br /> Wed, 30 Dec 2009 10:33:25 -0800 Video: Fry Cook http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1962/Fry-Cook/#videos ]]> <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1255/San-Diego">San Diego</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1954/Jasper-Trail">Jasper Trail</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1960/The-Garden">The Garden</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1961/Hamburger-Boulder">Hamburger Boulder</a> > Fry Cook<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/21/fraction">fraction</a><br /><br />Video is located <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1962#videos">HERE</a> Wed, 23 Dec 2009 09:59:00 -0800 Forum Post: Skipping Holds --> New Problem or Variation? http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=533#p6091 Here's my 10 cents:
Eliminates - deliberately not using certain holds, usually the big jugs, etc. - almost always harder.
Sit Down Starts (SDS) speak for themselves - almost always harder.
Variations - different start or different finish - can be easier or harder.

Naming conventions:
Legitimate with a different name, but can also be called the same name as the original route with Eliminate, SDS or Var. tagged on the end.

New problems or not? This is tricky. Not a new problem if they were spawned from the original problem, but rather a new eliminate, new SDS, or new variation to the original problem.
However, if a problem has a completely different start and/or finish, but only uses one or two holds of the original boulder problem, I'd say it could legitimately be called a separate (new) problem. Perhaps also if it's significantly different in concept.

]]> by sowr (Posted Wed Dec 23, 2009 9:59 am)<br/>Here's my 10 cents:<br />Eliminates - deliberately not using certain holds, usually the big jugs, etc. - almost always harder.<br />Sit Down Starts (SDS) speak for themselves - almost always harder.<br />Variations - different start or different finish - can be easier or harder.<br /><br />Naming conventions:<br />Legitimate with a different name, but can also be called the same name as the original route with Eliminate, SDS or Var. tagged on the end.<br /><br />New problems or not? This is tricky. Not a new problem if they were spawned from the original problem, but rather a new eliminate, new SDS, or new variation to the original problem. <br />However, if a problem has a completely different start and/or finish, but only uses one or two holds of the original boulder problem, I'd say it could legitimately be called a separate (new) problem. Perhaps also if it's significantly different in concept.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=533"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/1035/sowr">sowr</a><br /><br /> Mon, 21 Dec 2009 21:20:23 -0800 Video: 20 Pt Problem http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/512/20-Pt-Problem/#videos ]]> <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1255/San-Diego">San Diego</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/30/Santee-Boulders">Santee Boulders</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/511/20-Point-Boulder">20 Point Boulder</a> > 20 Pt Problem<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/21/fraction">fraction</a><br /><br />Video is located <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/512#videos">HERE</a> Mon, 21 Dec 2009 13:23:22 -0800 Photo: LHMFP http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/photo/view/4b2fe749dad95 <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1/Joshua-Tree">Joshua Tree</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/115/Hall-of-Horrors-LHMFP">Hall of Horrors / LHMFP</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/521/Lynn-Hill-Memorial-Boulder">Lynn Hill Memorial Boulder</a> > LHMFP<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/21/fraction">fraction</a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/photo/view/4b2fe749dad95"><img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/upload/4b2fe749dad95_thumblarge.jpg" /></a> Mon, 21 Dec 2009 13:21:53 -0800 Photo: Planet X http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/photo/view/4b2fe6f0ca45a <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1/Joshua-Tree">Joshua Tree</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/194/Planet-X">Planet X</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/559/Planet-X-Wall">Planet X Wall</a> > Planet X<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/21/fraction">fraction</a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/photo/view/4b2fe6f0ca45a"><img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/upload/4b2fe6f0ca45a_thumblarge.jpg" /></a> Mon, 21 Dec 2009 13:21:06 -0800 Photo: Newton's Law http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/photo/view/4b2fe6c1d9d92 <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1/Joshua-Tree">Joshua Tree</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/194/Planet-X">Planet X</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/373/Newtons-Law">Newton's Law</a> > Newton's Law<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/21/fraction">fraction</a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/photo/view/4b2fe6c1d9d92"><img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/upload/4b2fe6c1d9d92_thumblarge.jpg" /></a> Mon, 21 Dec 2009 11:50:08 -0800 Photo: Nicole Overhang http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/photo/view/4b2fd17078823 <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1/Joshua-Tree">Joshua Tree</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/194/Planet-X">Planet X</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/571/The-Hang">The Hang</a> > Nicole Overhang<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/21/fraction">fraction</a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/photo/view/4b2fd17078823"><img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/upload/4b2fd17078823_thumblarge.jpg" /></a> Mon, 21 Dec 2009 11:30:36 -0800 Photo: Breathless http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/photo/view/4b2fccd73f9f2 <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1/Joshua-Tree">Joshua Tree</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/68/Hidden-Valley-Campground">Hidden Valley Campground</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1938/Grit-Rock">Grit Rock</a> > Breathless<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/718/Heretic">Heretic</a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/photo/view/4b2fccd73f9f2"><img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/upload/4b2fccd73f9f2_thumblarge.jpg" /></a> Sat, 12 Dec 2009 00:53:00 -0800 Forum Post: Chuck Norris http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=817#p6086 That's pretty awesome!!

]]> by a.ron (Posted Sat Dec 12, 2009 12:53 am)<br/>That's pretty awesome!!<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=817"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/5/aron">a.ron</a><br /><br /> Wed, 09 Dec 2009 10:26:00 -0800 Forum Post: What's this Josh problem? http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=816#p6084 I'm here for you buddy! Let me know when you need more Depends, RTM has got some extras I hear.

]]> by a.ron (Posted Wed Dec 09, 2009 10:26 am)<br/>I'm here for you buddy! Let me know when you need more Depends, RTM has got some extras I hear.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=816"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/5/aron">a.ron</a><br /><br /> Tue, 08 Dec 2009 22:25:00 -0800 Forum Post: Truck Camping http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=814#p6082 yes, but straighter.

]]> by a.ron (Posted Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:25 pm)<br/>yes, but straighter.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=814"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/5/aron">a.ron</a><br /><br /> Tue, 08 Dec 2009 14:42:00 -0800 Forum Post: Looking for climbing partner(s) Dec 18-24 JTree http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=815#p6076 Also, I think it's on meet up dot com or something: http://www.meetup.com/Riverside-Rock-Climbers/

These guys tend to do some lead/trad (i think).

]]> by Heretic (Posted Tue Dec 08, 2009 2:42 pm)<br/>Also, I think it's on meet up dot com or something: <!-- m --><a class="postlink" href="http://www.meetup.com/Riverside-Rock-Climbers/">http://www.meetup.com/Riverside-Rock-Climbers/</a><!-- m --><br /><br />These guys tend to do some lead/trad (i think).<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=815"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/718/Heretic">Heretic</a><br /><br /> Fri, 04 Dec 2009 11:04:21 -0800 Photo: The Peanut http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/photo/view/4b195d3520bb7 <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1256/Riverside-San-Bernardino">Riverside / San Bernardino</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/1/Joshua-Tree">Joshua Tree</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/46/Geology-Tour-Road">Geology Tour Road</a> > <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/section/view/890/Peanut-Area">Peanut Area</a> > The Peanut<br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/21/fraction">fraction</a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/photo/view/4b195d3520bb7"><img src="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/content/upload/4b195d3520bb7_thumblarge.jpg" /></a> Thu, 03 Dec 2009 12:26:00 -0800 Forum Post: Rubidoux soon.. http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=798#p6065 my backyard gate opens onto the walking trail that goes up near 9th st...so i go up several days a week for short or long missions. PM me if you wanna go. currently working on bouldering some old TR's that modern pads make very doable.

]]> by oldskool5150 (Posted Thu Dec 03, 2009 12:26 pm)<br/>my backyard gate opens onto the walking trail that goes up near 9th st...so i go up several days a week for short or long missions. PM me if you wanna go. currently working on bouldering some old TR's that modern pads make very doable.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=798"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/14/oldskool5150">oldskool5150</a><br /><br /> Wed, 02 Dec 2009 23:55:00 -0800 Forum Post: forgot my guidebook in Bishop . . . argggg! http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=813#p6064 So if any of ya'll venture up to the dreamers just above Bishop, I forgot my guidebook on the ground somewhere there last Wednesday. If you see and grab it, that would be awesome - although I've heard they got some snow over the last weekend so it might be more of a slushy than a guidebook.

Thanks crew and happy sendin. (always make sure your guidebook is the pack when you leave!!)

]]> by a.ron (Posted Wed Dec 02, 2009 11:55 pm)<br/>So if any of ya'll venture up to the dreamers just above Bishop, I forgot my guidebook on the ground somewhere there last Wednesday. If you see and grab it, that would be awesome - although I've heard they got some snow over the last weekend so it might be more of a slushy than a guidebook. <br /><br />Thanks crew and happy sendin. (always make sure your guidebook is the pack when you leave!!)<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=813"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/5/aron">a.ron</a><br /><br /> Fri, 27 Nov 2009 02:17:00 -0800 Forum Post: i need some Jtree directions. http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=812#p6063 Don't you gotta guide book fool? haha

Pumping is at Cap Rock. Follow Park Blvd past Intersection Rock. Turn Right at the paved road heading toward Keys Point. Cap Rock will be the conglomerations immediately on the left hand side. Parking lot is on the left.

There are two major conglomerations, one on your left and one on your right. Follow the obvious trail from the parking lot (starting next to the outhouse) toward the conglomeration on the right, staying on the left fork as it leads you left and around. Keep looking straight ahead along the trail and you'll see the problem boulder (more distinctly the trail passes between two very large, close together boulders; the one on the left is the problem boulder). Another tell-tale sign for the problem boulder is that upon walking up to it via these directions, if you look up near the obvious lip of the boulder from the trail, you should see a couple of shallow huecos with chalk on them, low enough to jump to. I forget which problem that is, some V5-V6 thing. Pumping Monzonite is on the opposite arete, starting on the huge thread near the bottom. Go get it Aztec!

Alexandria ... good luck with finding that one ... joe1

]]> by Heretic (Posted Fri Nov 27, 2009 2:17 am)<br/>Don't you gotta guide book fool? haha<br /><br />Pumping is at Cap Rock. Follow Park Blvd past Intersection Rock. Turn Right at the paved road heading toward Keys Point. Cap Rock will be the conglomerations immediately on the left hand side. Parking lot is on the left.<br /><br />There are two major conglomerations, one on your left and one on your right. Follow the obvious trail from the parking lot (starting next to the outhouse) toward the conglomeration on the right, staying on the left fork as it leads you left and around. Keep looking straight ahead along the trail and you'll see the problem boulder (more distinctly the trail passes between two very large, close together boulders; the one on the left is the problem boulder). Another tell-tale sign for the problem boulder is that upon walking up to it via these directions, if you look up near the obvious lip of the boulder from the trail, you should see a couple of shallow huecos with chalk on them, low enough to jump to. I forget which problem that is, some V5-V6 thing. Pumping Monzonite is on the opposite arete, starting on the huge thread near the bottom. Go get it Aztec!<br /><br />Alexandria ... good luck with finding that one ... <img src="./images/smilies/biggrinjester[1].gif" alt="joe1" title="wiseguy" /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=812"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/718/Heretic">Heretic</a><br /><br /> Thu, 26 Nov 2009 10:32:00 -0800 Forum Post: Plans for Landfill Near Joshua Tree Stalled http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=811#p6061 They've been trying to do this for at least 10 years now. . . . .

I thought it had been dropped but I guess not.

]]> by a.ron (Posted Thu Nov 26, 2009 10:32 am)<br/>They've been trying to do this for at least 10 years now. . . . . <br /><br />I thought it had been dropped but I guess not.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=811"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/5/aron">a.ron</a><br /><br /> Thu, 26 Nov 2009 02:50:00 -0800 Forum Post: Case Study #34 http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=808#p6060
deeloinn wrote:
the buttermilker


Excellent~ Someone got it! Damn practically gave it away too.

Good guesses on Chuckawalla and especially Roof Romp (good one Rex, sorry I missed your near flash on that one!).

Image

]]> by Heretic (Posted Thu Nov 26, 2009 2:50 am)<br/><div class="quotetitle">deeloinn wrote:</div><div class="quotecontent">the buttermilker</div><br /><br />Excellent~ Someone got it! Damn practically gave it away too.<br /><br />Good guesses on Chuckawalla and especially Roof Romp (good one Rex, sorry I missed your near flash on that one!).<br /><br /><img src="http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u118/herbiackwings/CaseStudyNumber34Full.jpg" alt="Image" /><br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=808"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/718/Heretic">Heretic</a><br /><br /> Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:38:00 -0800 Forum Post: Next Website Work http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=810#p6053 Ah man... I changed the timeframe of the poll, and it erased the previous votes! Lame! Please vote again!

]]> by fraction (Posted Fri Nov 20, 2009 12:38 am)<br/>Ah man... I changed the timeframe of the poll, and it erased the previous votes! Lame! Please vote again!<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=810"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/21/fraction">fraction</a><br /><br /> Tue, 17 Nov 2009 12:40:00 -0800 Forum Post: Indian Cove Bouldering http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=809#p6045 Well I spent most of the weekend guiding for a group of scouts so I didn't get to do quite the development I wanted. I did find a couple of solid pieces of rock. Pixie rock of course has its crazy caveman-like cave traverse. The lip traverse I'd say goes at about V4 or 5 and the low traverse will go at about V8 or 9. In campsite 17 there is an awesome crystally V8 stem problem. I also found one super no-fall slabby high ball on the backside of the main area.

I'm going back to JTree this weekend to spend a day in Hidden Valley and then guide in Indian Cove for a few days so I'll be getting some pictures and video up on these rocks and plenty more. Personally I'm stoked on the area. I think there is going to be a lot to get excited about in the area.

]]> by Zinja (Posted Tue Nov 17, 2009 12:40 pm)<br/>Well I spent most of the weekend guiding for a group of scouts so I didn't get to do quite the development I wanted. I did find a couple of solid pieces of rock. Pixie rock of course has its crazy caveman-like cave traverse. The lip traverse I'd say goes at about V4 or 5 and the low traverse will go at about V8 or 9. In campsite 17 there is an awesome crystally V8 stem problem. I also found one super no-fall slabby high ball on the backside of the main area. <br /><br />I'm going back to JTree this weekend to spend a day in Hidden Valley and then guide in Indian Cove for a few days so I'll be getting some pictures and video up on these rocks and plenty more. Personally I'm stoked on the area. I think there is going to be a lot to get excited about in the area.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=809"></a><br />Submitted by: <a href="http://www.westcoastbouldering.com/user/view/1842/Zinja">Zinja</a><br /><br />