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| Shelter from the Storm Oct 19, 2011 | Don't know why people don't like this problem? Good slopers, crazy footwork, etc. All in all this was super fun~ (Edit Comment) |
| Cave Route Oct 19, 2011 | Someone told me that locals don't want people starting on the lower hold anymore because it flexes so much, and that starting on the next jug in retains the grade....but if you ask Wills he'll just say it's STILL subjective and unique to the individual's experience i.e. grade it however, just don't break the hold. =^) (Edit Comment) |
| Gleaming the Cube Oct 17, 2011 | You guys probably need to distinguish between sending either the sit or the stand. (Edit Comment) |
| Cankles Project Sep 25, 2011 | A couple of things to note about this problem: 1. There's potential for a low/sit start, however the hold needed to accomplish this flexes a great deal. No doubt it will break off after a few attempts. However anyone is welcome to be the guinea pig! 2. A key hold mid way up also flexes slightly. Upon inspection, you can see stress cracks underneath the hold. 3. The huge flake on the upper left appears very chossy at its base. Solid higher up. (Edit Comment) |
| Holcomb Valley Pinnacles Sep 25, 2011 | Since there's a massive amount of relatively undocumented bouldering thoughout Holcomb Valley, I think it'll benefit the SoCal/WestCoast community to start documenting stuff. If or when any of you guys have time, could you please just start adding info? I'm gonna start adding what little I know of the place, I figure we can just base approach/location directions around the Pinnacles themselves. From there we can iron out accuracy issues and what not but getting started and putting up anything we know is better than not having anything, right? Thanks! (Edit Comment) |
| Methane Boulder Sep 14, 2011 | Who's done Methane from the start of Meth Lab? Is that what the community considers the V6 version of Methane? (Edit Comment) |
| Spirit of the Forest Aug 28, 2011 | Stout~ (Edit Comment) |
| Like A Virgin Aug 26, 2011 | Who's the nutcase wearing gloves on the Virgin? Hopefully he doesn't show up tomorrow.... =^D (Edit Comment) |
| Paul's Balls Aug 18, 2011 | Edit 2011.09.13: 1. After closer inspection, the line is actually much more fluid if you DO NOT drop down into the start of Paul's Cock. Better yet, when you can reach it, use that hold as a foot/heel/perch to grab the top of Paul's Cock to top out. This makes it a much more consistent line with nice slopers. 2. This line is probably closer to V2, so I'm inclined to agree with Aztec's original proposed grade of V2. 3. Finally got a round to contacting Paul himself. His feedback on this line - "As for Pauls Balls, my original intention was to traverse the boulder as you did and call it Pauls Buttock but Pauls Cock turn out to be a mild pile so I wasn't motivated to add the additional move". Thus an FA for Dylin Cordova. (Edit Comment) |
| Pigfucker Jul 7, 2011 | Honestly, I don't see the problem with it. Last we were there it wasn't super grainy or anything and you were able to resend without much effort. And it's just a typical JTree climb; blank sloper lieback w/ smears. CLASSIC!!! (Edit Comment) |
| Lost Roof May 16, 2011 | Damn rTm! Lookin' sexy!!! bahahah~ (Edit Comment) |
| Lost Roof May 16, 2011 | @rtm - Do you have any pics of this thing? (Edit Comment) |
| Solitude May 11, 2011 | @tdple13 - We need to hit this up sometime this season! (Edit Comment) |
| Slot Machine aka: Re-Animator May 6, 2011 | @hero - (edit 5/8) I tried it yesterday. The right wrist tweeks a little bit due to the angle of the start hold. I think if you're short, it can probably stand at V6. If you're tall, you can lock off and just reach up. (Edit Comment) |
| Serengeti May 5, 2011 | Good, solid movement, though the crimps make it inconsistent with the rest of the problem IMHO~ (Edit Comment) |
| Solarium Apr 18, 2011 | STILL a V3. I don't know what broke but it feels exactly the same as it did a year and half ago? (Edit Comment) |
| Dream Sequence (Direct) Apr 12, 2011 | Thanks for the info...and yeah when I send this thing, it's getting 5-stars =^) I'll edit the problem descriptions when I get a chance to indicate a "direct" variation vs a "left" variation. (Edit Comment) |
| Lost & Found Apr 4, 2011 | @rtm - I know, I could feel the backhand smackin' me upside the head! As for the grade...Is it that deadpoint (or as scary as it would be, a full-on dyno) to that high pocket that makes it a V8? (Edit Comment) |
| Lost & Found Apr 4, 2011 | Dang! rTm lays the smackdown on your candy @$$!!! I spoke to Kevin last week or so about the problem. He said V5/6 sounded about right. V8 you say? I tried the first crux, which I thought was hard. The next one is just SCARY. We definitely needed more pads and spotters for that one =^( (Edit Comment) |
| Dream Sequence (Direct) Apr 1, 2011 | Well I guess you can always prod him for more accurate FA information as well as names for those cool nameless problems! =^D (Edit Comment) |
