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| Pai Mei Overhang Oct 30, 2011 | kuan chin is the back right side of the boulder if looking at the topo photo. (Edit Comment) |
| Matrix Mar 9, 2011 | DON'T. it buries crucial feet for matrix reloaded. And the fall isn't that bad as long as you plan your pads well. (Edit Comment) |
| Purple Stones Feb 6, 2011 | Dameat, the headwaters were developed recently as you know, with that in mind the areas were named in relation to what had been climbed. This being the South area (which has chicken catchatori) and the North Area (main area). It was called North area because it was north of the south area... see Craig Fry's southern california bouldering guide for more on it. (Edit Comment) |
| Blank Generation SDS Nov 11, 2010 | James March got the FA i think ... (Edit Comment) |
| Fritz Face Nov 1, 2010 | yair is the only one i know who has done it as a dyno. and dameat calls it fritz face if i remember correctly, so i'd go with that. (Edit Comment) |
| Avalon Jul 23, 2010 | It's worth noting that there is a variation to the top out. A) the original way (Bill Leventhal) followed the obvious loaf pinches out to the right, leading to good positive edges after committing moves. B) the alternate way (Banny Root variation) uses the left arete and a far left pinch for a more direct, though inobvious, finish which eases the grade to probably a V8 and risks possibly damaging a crucial crimp in the process. (Edit Comment) |
| Matrix Apr 8, 2010 | odd, my arm span is only 5"8. but ingenuitive nonetheless (Edit Comment) |
| Matrix Apr 8, 2010 | i actually went pretty much straight up . . . (Edit Comment) |
| White Angel Feb 18, 2010 | Dark angel is Jarod's eliminate variation which heads up before even reaching sledgehammer (or pile lieback for that matter). And Weston, Julian & Michael listed it (white angel) as 10. (Edit Comment) |
| Matrix Feb 8, 2010 | OK, so ignore what i said before- i deleted the post. I went to steele today and sent it. Beta is as follows, at second rail, with both hands on rail, kick left foot up onto rectangular block on the far left of the seam/ledge. Rock onto it with your right hand pulling down hard on the sloper, reach up and high with the left, either to the first crimp at the obvious flake, or the higher one about 8 inches up and to the right of it, foot hand match with your right side. Then up... (Edit Comment) |
| Matrix Reloaded Feb 3, 2010 | this starts on the corner to the left of the problem (Edit Comment) |
| Matrix Feb 3, 2010 | i believe you grab something (i can't remember if it was a crimp or an incut or what) in the right corner of the second ledge, highstep with the left, than reach up around the slope to the left, find something decent, bring right straight up and over and you're done. (Edit Comment) |
| Horse Flats Jan 24, 2010 | a lot of these problems could use better route descriptions, like starting holds (Edit Comment) |
| Blank Gen Right Jan 24, 2010 | why is this rated if its a project? (Edit Comment) |
| Yabo Mantle Jan 18, 2010 | thank you fraction (Edit Comment) |
| Yabo Mantle Jan 16, 2010 | lizards, and either way i don't remember most of my send dates to begin with when I list them on this site. (Edit Comment) |
| Zodiac Boulder Nov 11, 2009 | i got the sit for that starting matched on the shelf. I'm guessing its a V5? (Edit Comment) |
| The Mothership Connection Oct 12, 2009 | this is noticeably harder than chizam stand start. (Edit Comment) |
| North Area Oct 6, 2009 | theres the prow which i believe is a v9 on the naked edge boulder, it starts on the right side, there is the compression problem starting on the left side, there is a sit start to pungi sticks (i believe) done by weston ureda, and probably more that dameat knows about. (Edit Comment) |
| Green Wall Center Sep 30, 2009 | i actually enjoy this problem, after i sent it the first time i made an effort to get it dialed, the movements (or atleast my beta for it) feels to flow very freely and i enjoy the aesthetic of it. (Edit Comment) |
